Ach du lieber Himmel, Houston traffic makes even a Bavarian cowherd want to turn back—but nein, stick around, because this place ain’t just stoplights and sweat. Houston wears the nickname Space City louder than a Texan in a fresh pair of boots, and if you think that’s just a tourist slogan, you’d be dümmer than a pretzel in chili. From Apollo to "Houston, we have a Problem" Back in the 1960s, when America was racing the Russkis to the moon,…